I read a ton of stuff by Jon Risch on another forum and built floor-to-ceiling SEALED corner bass traps using 2" thick by 24" wide dense fiberglass panels (not the loose pink in-a-roll kind you buy at home-improvement stores) found at a builder supply warehouse and common 1/2" thick 4" wide plywood planks to build the frame around the fiberglass. I have nothing that compares with bugredmachine’s extensive "ground-up" installation, but went through a challenging time damping the excessive low/mid-bass frequencies in my 15’ X 24’ X 9’ room. That's the scoop on MLV - it's probably more for "the adventurous DIY'er" :-) However, the taps are significantly smaller than any traps I have seen to date. The traps I built have eliminated unwanted reflections that I didn't even realize I had and most of those were around 70 Hz and up. They did result in a significant reduction in what I believe to be standing waves below 70 Hz, but it did not eliminate them completely. It came in 4' x 6' sheets only and cost $50 CDN/sheet in Toronto (Mississauga), but there are many similar products available on the web from other locations, because it weighs 1 lb/ sq ft - so shipping can be as much as the cost of the product, so try to source locally. The name of the product I use is "Noiseblok" and purchased from. It might also be used for soundproofing a wall, since it is only 1/8" thick - but it is also quite heavy, therefore special glue must be used This will act to absorb sound waves inside the trap and reduce vibrations that may be transferred to the outer panels of the trap. If you are planning on building an acoustic trap, one suggested use might be to line the inside of the trap with this product. You can cut it with a carpet knife, simply scour and bend to open the cut and then finish with one final cut, however, curved cuts can be a little difficult. Structural rigidity is very poor, so it should be glued/fastened in place on a frame or structure. A hot glue gun is a good bonding agent for this material. I have used it to build a couple of different types of acoustic traps and it appears to do a reasonable job of quelling unwanted vibrations - however that my also be due to in part to the shape of the trap and the other materials used It does not allow sound waves to pass through it and I believe is reflects very little also. application to a straight pipe is OK as long as there is no bend or curve in the pipe It is somewhat pliable, but it does not like any kind of shape that is rounded in more than one plane i.e. I decided to take the plunge and get a sheet of 1/8" MLV to see what it was capable of.įrom an acoustic perspective it is an inert material, i.e.
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